A few Christmases ago, we decided we wanted to go somewhere that felt like we had stepped directly into a Hallmark Christmas movie. Naturally, that search led us to Leavenworth, Washington, a tiny Bavarian-style town tucked into the mountains with Christmas lights everywhere, little shops, gingerbread cookies, snow, live music, and people wandering around in full winter gear.
📍 Destination: Leavenworth, Washington
📅 Last Visited: December 15-18, 2023
✈️ Trip Type: Family Christmas trip
🗓️ Trip Length: 3 nights
⭐ Best For: Families who want a walkable, festive Christmas trip with shopping, lights, food, and easy activities
Instagram had also convinced me that Leavenworth was basically an enormous Christmas village with endless things to do.
That part was… slightly exaggerated. 😂
We loved the trip, but one of the biggest things I want to tell you before you plan it is that Leavenworth is much smaller than social media makes it look. The main Christmas activity is concentrated around Front Street Park and the surrounding downtown area. You are not exploring a giant Christmas festival for three days.
And honestly, once I stopped expecting that, I think I appreciated the trip more.
Leavenworth is less about racing between 25 attractions and more about wandering through Christmas shops, eating something warm, watching the kids play in the snow, stopping for gingerbread cookies, listening to live music, having a cocktail around a fire pit, and just slowing down for a few days.
That ended up being what made the trip special.
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Why Visit Leavenworth at Christmas?
Leavenworth already looks like a little Bavarian village throughout the year, but Christmas takes the whole thing up several levels. Downtown is covered in lights, Front Street Park becomes the center of the holiday activity, shops are packed with Christmas decorations, and there are live performances, food vendors, Santa appearances, kids’ activities and seasonal events happening throughout town.
The Christmas celebration is officially called Village of Lights: Christmastown. The lights stay on throughout the winter season, while the main Christmastown programming happens during the Christmas season.
What I liked most about Leavenworth with kids was that we didn’t have to constantly entertain them with some giant attraction. We could walk into a toy store, get a gingerbread cookie, play in a random pile of snow, look at an insane number of Christmas villages at Kris Kringl, and then stop somewhere for lunch.
It’s more of a memory-making trip than an activity-packed trip, and I actually think that’s part of the appeal.
If you want the full breakdown of what downtown Christmastown actually felt like — including my very honest thoughts about the crowds and how much smaller it was than Instagram made it look — read my Leavenworth Christmastown With Kids guide.
Best Time to Visit Leavenworth at Christmas
If you want the full Christmas experience, I would go in December while Christmastown programming is happening. That’s when you’ll get the live entertainment, Santa, food vendors, gingerbread displays, and all of the extra Christmas activity on top of the lights. We visited Friday through Monday, December 15–18, so we experienced Leavenworth during a very busy Christmas weekend.
The biggest thing I would do differently is plan more of our downtown exploring during the daytime.
It was considerably easier to walk through town, shop and let the girls move around earlier in the day. Once it got dark and everyone came downtown to see the lights, Front Street Park could become extremely crowded.
With a 2-year-old who wanted to run wherever she wanted?
Not ideal. 😂
We went back out to see the lights because obviously you have to see Leavenworth glowing at night, but there was one evening when the crowd got so dense that we decided we had experienced enough Christmas spirit for the day and walked back to our hotel.
If you’re traveling with toddlers or younger kids, I would do the majority of your shopping and wandering earlier, take a break at your hotel, and then come back out for the lights.
The Biggest Planning Lesson: BOOK THINGS BEFORE YOU GO
Apparently we thought we were going to roll into a tiny Christmas town and casually decide what we felt like doing each morning.
Leavenworth said absolutely not. 😂
We made this mistake more than once.
The first was the Leavenworth Reindeer Farm. I assumed we could book tickets once we arrived, and by the time I checked, it was sold out for our entire stay.
Then one day we decided to walk over to Leavenworth Adventure Park because we really wanted to ride the mountain coaster. We got everyone bundled up, walked all the way there, arrived and thought it looked surprisingly empty.
Perfect, right?
Nope.
The mountain coaster time slots were fully booked, so we couldn’t ride it at all.
That was the moment I realized Leavenworth is a small destination with a LOT of Christmas visitors and not an unlimited number of activities.
So learn from us:
If there is something you really want to do in Leavenworth, book it before you arrive.
Don’t assume you can walk up and do the Reindeer Farm. Don’t assume the mountain coaster will have space just because the park looks quiet. And if there is a restaurant you’re really excited about, I would make a reservation there too if they take them.
How to Get to Leavenworth
We flew into Seattle and then took Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Seattle to Leavenworth instead of renting a car and driving through the mountain pass.
There had been a lot of snow that year, and neither Corey nor I was particularly excited about navigating snowy mountain roads in a rental car. Once I discovered that we could book a private Family Bedroom on the train, have dinner in the dining car and let the girls hang out in little train beds, I was sold.
On our trip, our train left Seattle at 4:55 p.m. and arrived at Icicle Station at 8:17 p.m. Our return train left Leavenworth at 7:23 a.m. and arrived back in Seattle at 11:29 a.m.
We booked one Family Bedroom for the four of us — two adults and two kids — and paid around $1,000 round trip.
Would driving have been faster and easier?
Yes.
Would we remember a random drive from Seattle the way we remember eating dinner in the dining car and watching the girls climb into their little train beds?
Probably not.
For us, taking the train made getting to Leavenworth part of the experience.
Read my full Seattle to Leavenworth by Train guide here.
Where to Stay in Leavenworth With Kids
We stayed at Obertal Inn in a Double Queen room, and the biggest advantage was the location. We were right in town and could walk to Front Street Park, restaurants, shops and basically everything we wanted to do downtown.
Our stay included Wi-Fi and breakfast, which was actually pretty good, and we ordered two of their handmade snowflake-design apple strudels because apparently we were fully committing to the Bavarian Christmas experience.
There isn’t really a true five-star family resort in Leavenworth, so for us the hotel decision became more about finding the best combination of location, comfort and useful amenities.
If it were just Corey and me?
I’d stay at Posthotel Leavenworth.
That was actually the hotel I originally wanted to book until I realized it was adults-only. Later in the trip we saw it while walking along the river, and seeing it in person just confirmed that yes, I still want to stay there.
Read my complete Where to Stay in Leavenworth at Christmas guide here.
Best Things to Do in Leavenworth at Christmas With Kids
Walk Through Downtown and See the Christmas Lights
This is the main event.
Leavenworth is at its prettiest once the whole downtown area is glowing, and even though the crowds can be intense, I would absolutely still go out after dark at least once.
Front Street Park is the center of most of the Christmas activity, so you’ll find the lights, performances, vendors and seasonal events concentrated around that area.
Explore the Christmas Shops
We spent a surprising amount of time just wandering in and out of shops, which is part of why I don’t think you need to over-schedule this trip.
The girls enjoyed looking around too, so shopping wasn’t just an adult activity we were dragging them through.
And somehow Corey ended up buying actual leather lederhosen.
As one does in Leavenworth. 😂
Visit Kris Kringl
Kris Kringl was easily one of my favorite stores in town.
They had multiple floors packed with Christmas villages, nativity sets, ornaments and decorations for basically every theme imaginable. Harry Potter, Star Wars, animals — if there is a niche, there was probably a Christmas decoration for it.
They also had a huge selection of German cuckoo clocks, and Corey and I spent forever looking through them before finally picking one and having it shipped home.
It still hangs in our family room, and every time I hear it cuckoo I think about this trip.
Go to the Gingerbread Factory
I went back to The Gingerbread Factory multiple times during our stay.
Sometimes twice in one day.
That should tell you everything you need to know. 😂
The gingerbread cookies were SO good, and the bakery itself is decorated with enough little displays that there is plenty to look at while you’re waiting. Earlier in the day, the line moved relatively quickly, but later in the afternoon and evening it could stretch out the door.
Go early.
Then go back later if you’re me.
Watch the Live Entertainment
There were live performances happening around Front Street Park throughout the day, along with food and drink vendors that made it easy to grab something while we wandered around.
The Festhalle also had a giant display of gingerbread houses that people had decorated and submitted for judging, which the girls loved looking at.
I would check the Christmastown schedule for your actual travel dates before you go so you know what performances and activities are happening while you’re there.
Leavenworth Reindeer Farm
This is the one activity I am still annoyed with myself for missing.
The Leavenworth Reindeer Farm is close to downtown, but you need to plan ahead.
We did not.
By the time we decided we wanted to go, tickets were sold out for the entire time we were there.
If this is important to you, book it when you are planning the trip — not when you’re already standing in Leavenworth wondering what to do that afternoon.
Next time, this is at the top of my list.
Leavenworth Adventure Park + the Mountain Coaster
We also attempted to visit Leavenworth Adventure Park because we really wanted to ride the mountain coaster.
Attempted being the important word.
We walked all the way over from downtown with the girls, got there, looked around and thought, this place looks empty — perfect.
It was not perfect. 😂
Even though the park didn’t look busy, the coaster time slots were fully booked, so we weren’t able to ride it at all.
That was the second big lesson of the trip: Leavenworth during Christmas is not really a “we’ll decide when we get there” destination for the popular activities. Between the Reindeer Farm being sold out and the mountain coaster being booked, apparently everything we actually wanted to do needed to be planned ahead and we had completely missed that memo.
If riding the coaster is something your family really wants to do, reserve your time before your trip. Do not assume you’ll be able to walk up and ride just because the park looks quiet.
We were pretty disappointed because that was the whole reason we had walked over there, but the failed plan actually led to one of my favorite parts of the day.
Take the Scenic Route Back Along the River
Instead of heading straight back along the main road after striking out at the mountain coaster, we decided to take the scenic route back along the river.
We found a playground and let the girls play, wandered along the water, stopped to mess around in the snow, and eventually walked past Posthotel Leavenworth — the adults-only hotel I had originally wanted to book.
It was completely unplanned, and honestly, it was exactly the kind of thing I ended up loving about Leavenworth.
No mountain coaster.
But a really good afternoon anyway.
Sometimes the activity you didn’t get to do leads you to the part of the trip you remember.
Where We Ate in Leavenworth
We weren’t doing a huge foodie trip, but we had several meals that I still remember and would absolutely recommend working into a Christmas weekend.
Rhein Haus Biergarten
One of my favorite lunches was at Rhein Haus.
Our friends who live in Seattle came to Leavenworth for the weekend and stayed at Obertal Inn with us, so we met them for lunch and sat outside overlooking the park.
We were all wearing full snow gear, and the tables had little fire pits built into them. The men had beer, the ladies had cocktails, the kids were playing together, and we just sat there hanging out and enjoying the view over town.
It felt very appropriately Leavenworth-at-Christmas.
Blewett Brewing Company
We had pizza and beer one night at Blewett Brewing Company, which was an easy casual dinner with kids.
Corey got his beer, everyone was happy with pizza, and after walking around in the cold all day it was exactly what we needed.
Sometimes the best family vacation restaurant is the one where everyone sits down, eats and nobody complains. 😂
Yodelin
We also had dinner at Yodelin, and this one actually followed us home.
They had live music when we visited, and Corey and I ordered mulled wine that we loved so much that we ended up starting to make mulled wine for our own Christmas Eve parties.
So now every Christmas when we’re making it at home, it reminds me a little bit of Leavenworth.
Between the cuckoo clock and the mulled wine, apparently we collected traditions instead of souvenirs on this trip.
The Gingerbread Factory
This gets another mention because I refuse to pretend gingerbread cookies don’t qualify as an important food group during Christmas.
Go.
Preferably early.
And get more than you think you need.
Other Leavenworth Christmas Experiences You Can Book
If you are looking for a short guided tour to learn fun facts, history, and local recommendations, you can check out this hour-and-a-half Christmastown tour here. It includes hot cocoa from Little Red’s coffee stand, handmade chocolates, and, if you are 21+, complimentary Glühwein tasting (German Spiced Wine).
Check Leavenworth Christmastown Tour details and availability here
Do You Need a Car in Leavenworth?
For the majority of our trip, we didn’t.
We stayed downtown and walked to the shops, restaurants, Front Street Park and most of the things we wanted to do.
Even Adventure Park was walkable for us — although apparently getting there doesn’t matter if you didn’t make a reservation. 😂
The Reindeer Farm is also nearby, but depending on the weather, your kids’ ages and how bundled up everyone is, you may prefer arranging a ride rather than walking.
If you’re staying downtown, I would prioritize walkability over having a car for every little thing.
Family Tips for Visiting Leavenworth at Christmas
The biggest piece of advice I can give you is to plan the things that require tickets and leave everything else loose.
Reserve the Reindeer Farm. Reserve the mountain coaster if that’s something your family wants to do. Make dinner reservations when possible during a busy weekend. Then leave space between those things to wander around town.
A few other things I would keep in mind:
- Don’t expect downtown to be as huge as it looks online. It’s very compact.
- Do most of your shopping and exploring earlier in the day. Nighttime gets crowded.
- Stay somewhere walkable if possible. It made our trip so much easier.
- Dress in layers and bring real winter gear. We ate outside in snow gear and were completely fine.
- Have a plan for toddlers in the nighttime crowds.
- Book the Reindeer Farm well ahead of time.
- Reserve the mountain coaster if it matters to you.
- If you’re taking Amtrak, leave a large buffer between your flight and train.
- Arrange your transportation from Icicle Station before arriving at night.
- Don’t schedule every minute. Some of our favorite moments happened because our original plan fell apart.
A Sample 2-Day Leavenworth Christmas Itinerary
If I were planning the trip again knowing what I know now, this is roughly how I would structure it.
Day 1: Downtown Leavenworth + Christmastown
Start earlier in the day while downtown is less crowded. Grab a treat from the Gingerbread Factory, walk through Front Street Park and spend the morning wandering through the shops.
Definitely stop at Kris Kringl and give yourself time to actually look around because the store is huge inside.
For lunch, I would do Rhein Haus and sit outside by the fire pits if the weather allows. After lunch, walk around town, check out the Festhalle or whatever seasonal activities are happening that day, and then head back to the hotel for a little break.
Once it gets dark, go back out to see the lights and watch some of the live entertainment. Just be prepared for a completely different crowd level than you experienced earlier in the day.
Finish with dinner at Yodelin or Blewett Brewing.
Day 2: One Prebooked Activity + Slow Afternoon
This is where I would schedule one activity that you booked in advance.
If seeing the reindeer is your priority, go to the Reindeer Farm.
If your family wants the mountain coaster, reserve your time at Adventure Park before the trip.
Then leave the rest of the afternoon intentionally loose.
Walk along the river. Find the playground. Let the kids play in the snow. Grab another gingerbread cookie because obviously. Do a little more shopping and take photos without feeling like you need to rush somewhere else.
Then finish with dinner and one last walk through the lights.
That’s enough.
You don’t need to turn Leavenworth into Disney World.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Leavenworth Worth Visiting at Christmas With Kids?
I think so, as long as you go into the trip with realistic expectations.
The main Christmas area is smaller than social media makes it appear, but there is still enough to fill a couple of days with kids. The best parts for us were actually the simple things — shopping, food, snow, lights and wandering around together.
How Many Days Do You Need in Leavenworth at Christmas?
I think two full days is enough for most families to enjoy downtown, do one or two planned activities, eat somewhere fun, shop and see the lights without feeling rushed.
If you’re adding other outdoor activities or using Leavenworth as a base for exploring the surrounding area, you could obviously stay longer.
Is Leavenworth Walkable?
Very.
If you stay downtown, most of the shops, restaurants and Christmastown activities are within easy walking distance.
That’s one of the biggest reasons I would choose a centrally located hotel with kids.
Does Leavenworth Get Crowded at Christmas?
Yes.
Daytime felt considerably easier for us, while nighttime around Front Street Park got extremely crowded.
If you have little kids, I would do the majority of your wandering during the day and save nighttime for seeing the lights rather than trying to do all of your shopping.
Do You Need a Car in Leavenworth?
We didn’t need one for most of our trip because we stayed downtown.
If you’re planning activities farther outside the main area or don’t want to walk in winter weather, having transportation can still be useful.
Can You Take the Train From Seattle to Leavenworth?
Yes.
We took Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Seattle’s King Street Station to Icicle Station in Leavenworth and booked a private Family Bedroom for the four of us.
Read my complete Seattle to Leavenworth by Train guide here.
Is the Leavenworth Christmas Area as Big as It Looks Online?
No.
At least it wasn’t to me.
Instagram made it look considerably larger than it felt in real life. The main Christmas activity is concentrated around Front Street Park and the surrounding downtown area.
That doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting — just don’t arrive expecting a giant sprawling Christmas festival.
How Far Ahead Should You Book the Reindeer Farm?
I would book it as soon as your trip dates are confirmed.
Holiday dates are extremely popular and can sell out well ahead of time.
We learned this lesson the hard way.
Do You Need Reservations for the Mountain Coaster at Leavenworth Adventure Park?
I would absolutely reserve it during Christmas season if riding the coaster is important to your family.
We walked all the way there because we wanted to ride the mountain coaster, thought the park looked empty, and then found out the coaster time slots were fully booked.
Don’t be us. 😂
Leavenworth Is A Small Cutesy Town Worth Visiting
Leavenworth at Christmas wasn’t exactly the trip Instagram had made me picture in my head.
The downtown Christmas area was smaller than I expected, the nighttime crowds could be intense, and apparently Corey and I completely missed the memo that we needed to reserve half of our activities before arriving.
But somehow, none of those are the things I think about first when I remember the trip.
I remember the train ride into town. I remember the girls climbing into their little beds on Amtrak. I remember eating gingerbread cookies more than once in the same day, buying our cuckoo clock, Corey purchasing leather lederhosen, drinking mulled wine at Yodelin, sitting around the fire pits at Rhein Haus with our friends, and letting the girls play in the snow.
I even remember walking all the way to Adventure Park just to find out we couldn’t ride the mountain coaster, because that failed plan turned into a river walk, a playground stop, snow play and accidentally finding the hotel I had originally wanted to stay at.
That’s kind of what Leavenworth ended up being for us.
Not a trip packed with giant attractions.
Just a bunch of little moments that somehow became really good memories.
And yes, I would absolutely go back.
But next time?
I’m booking the damn reindeer AND the mountain coaster. 😂
Plan Your Leavenworth Christmas Trip
Planning your own Leavenworth Christmas trip? These guides will help you finish planning the rest of your stay:
- Leavenworth Christmastown With Kids: What It’s Really Like
- Where to Stay in Leavenworth at Christmas
- Seattle to Leavenworth by Train: Amtrak Guide for Families